To see how radically demographics have changed in Orange County, Calif., just look at what’s for lunch.

Nowhere are the shifts more evident than in the abundance of ethnic restaurants with menus meant to please varied palates.

In the Vietnamese cooking of Hop Phan’s family, avocados were meant for sweet, not savory dishes. But in high school, his Mexican friends handed him a taste of the fruit mashed with salt and spicy beef in a tortilla. The shock of that first bite of a taco quickly turned to awe, not to mention a love affair with cultural culinary tourism.

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